Thursday, September 24, 2015

Up & Down Church Hill: Images by Harris Stilson & Oral Histories from Church Hill, Shockoe, & Fulton.

Kitty Snow's latest book on Richmond history is
available from Amazon and local book stores.  

Older publications include: 
 
from Amazon, Dietz Press and local bookstores.

On The West Clay Line, is available from
Amazon, in local bookstores and in our online store.


Richmond's Kitty Snow has been busy the last few years researching, writing, and publishing books that use her great-grandfather's photographs to illustrate and document the life of ordinary Richmonders of the early 20th century.  To learn more about Kitty, her great-grandfather, Harris Stilson, the streetcar motorman and photographer, visit this SITE

On Kitty's website, Richmond In Sight, a new feature highlights images of bicycles in Richmond taken by Harris Stilson, seen here riding his grandson's bike. 

- Ray 

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

Monroe Park in Postcards, 1900-1910s.

[Years ago I began collecting postcards of Monroe Park. I later donated them to VCU Libraries. This is a revamped exhibit the library once had online that has since been taken down. - Ray]


Postcard image of Monroe Park, ca.1910.

Bound by four streets with buildings that are rich with architectural diversity, Monroe Park has been an urban oasis in Richmond for over 100 years. Its unique location on the city's western edge lent itself to be a fashionable city park that by the late 1920s was enclosed by monumental churches, public buildings, two high rise apartment buildings and numerous 19th century houses. Although it is a small and simply designed city park, its setting creates "an architectural ensemble which is unique in Virginia for its monumental character and stylistic diversity."

Postcard image of Monroe Park, ca.1900.
Classic image of Monroe Park.

Postcard image of Monroe Park, ca.1910.

Purchased by the City of Richmond in 1851, the 7.5-acre area that became Monroe Park was located on the western edge of the city. The land was first used as the State Agricultural Fair Grounds in the mid-19th century. During the Civil War the area was used primarily as camp grounds for the City Guard whose barracks were later converted to a hospital. After the war, the first organized baseball games in Richmond were played there.


Postcard image of Monroe Park, postmarked 1920.
These views show Monroe Terrace Apartments (now VCU's Johnson Hall).

Postcard image of Monroe Park, ca.1920.  The image shows what is now VCU's Johnson Hall, built 1913.

In the 1870s, as Richmond expanded west, the grounds became a fashionable city park as an increasing number of substantial houses were built in the area. Its design, radial walks which focus on its four adjacent streets and on a central fountain, was developed at this time in the city engineer's office of Wilfred Emory Cutshaw (1838-1907). Seen on late nineteenth century maps as both Western Square and Monroe Square (it was located adjacent to the city's Monroe Ward), the park by the 1890s was at the heart of what became one of the city's most desirable neighborhoods. During the day, wrote Richmond writer James Branch Cabell (1879-1958), the park would be "filled with nurses and their well-attired wards who were joined later in the day by older promenaders; often band music could be heard on summer evenings."


Postcard image of Monroe Park, ca.1910.
All of these postcards date from 1900 to the 1910s.
Postcard image of Monroe Park, postmarked 1912.

The area west of Monroe Park would become known as the Fan District -- a large residential neighborhood full of late 19th and early 20th century houses. The park's survival was threatened in the late twentieth century as the neighborhood around it evolved from a residential area to a more urban landscape. Today, the park's future seems more secure. In 1992, the City of Richmond recognized its importance by declaring the park "green space in perpetuity." In 2004, Virginia Commonwealth University, Virginia's largest urban university, renamed its western campus, which sits adjacent to the park, as the "Monroe Park Campus."


Postcard image of Monroe Park, postmarked 1908.

Postcard image of the Cathedral of the Sacred Heart as seen from Monroe Park, ca.1910.
Cathedral of the Sacred Heart.


Postcard image of Monroe Park, ca.1905.



An excellent resource on the history of the park is The Ghosts and Glories of Monroe Park, Richmond, Virginia: A Sesquicentennial History by David M. Clinger, published in 1998 by Dietz Press, Richmond, Virginia.

- Ray

Sunday, September 20, 2015

Police Court Crime Briefs of Richmond as reported in The Daily State Journal, January 23, 1871.

Front page of The Daily State Journal published in Richmond, January 23, 1871.

Where's Jim Kidd when you need him?


Learn more about Police Justice White HERE - from A History of the Government of the City of Richmond, Virginia and a Sketch of Those that Administer It's Affairs. by Robert R. Nuckols, 1899.


- Ray

Wednesday, September 16, 2015

Ginter House, built 1888-1892, the Richardsonian Romanesque Jewell of Richmond, Virginia - An Architectural History

Ginter House, 1890s.


Ginter House, 901 W. Franklin St., Richmond, Virginia, built 1888-1892, is one of the city's most architecturally significant structures and is considered the finest example of Richardsonian Romanesque architecture in Virginia. 


The house was built for Major Lewis Ginter, a tobacco magnet and one of the wealthiest men in late 19th century Virginia. It briefly served as Richmond's first public library (1925-1930) and has been the main administrative building on the Monroe Park campus of Virginia Commonwealth University since 1930.


Located at the corner of Shafer and W. Franklin Streets, Ginter House was built 1888-1892 for cigarette magnate and philanthropist Major Lewis Ginter (1824-1897). Ginter's impact on Richmond included the development of the city's north side, including the Ginter Park neighborhood, and the commissioning of the Jefferson Hotel (1893-1895), still one of the most elegant hotels in the nation. 


In the mid-1880s, Ginter acquired a country house called "Westbrook" in Henrico. Just before work on his house on W. Franklin was begun, "Westbrook," originally a large farmhouse, was turned into a Queen Anne mansion by Richmond architect Edgerton Rogers (1861-1901) known to most as the architect of Maymont, the grand house of Major James H. Dooley and his wife Sallie May Dooley. "Westbrook" and its property were converted to use as a psychiatric hospital in 1911. The house was demolished in 1975.


Item from The Critic and Record, a newspaper published in Washington, D. C., March 16, 1888.


For his house on W. Franklin St., located only blocks from the city's center, Ginter chose Washington, D.C. based architects Harvey L. Page (1859-1934) and William Winthrop Kent (1860-1955) to design his suburban mansion. Page was the architect while Kent served as the chief ornamentalist. 


Drawing of Ginter House as it appeared in Building: An Architectural Weekly, vol.9, no. 3, July 21, 1888. The image was spread over two pages and lists Harvey L. Page and W. W. Kent (William Winthrop Kent) as architects. 


The west side of Ginter House, circa 1900, image from Special Collections and Archives, VCU Libraries. 

Both Page and Kent had experience working on residences designed in the Richardsonian style. In fact, Kent had worked briefly in the early 1880s in the office of Henry Hobson Richardson (1838-1886). Page had designed numerous houses and other buildings in the Richardsonian style in Washington, D.C. They brought their expertise to this important Richmond commission. Money was apparently not a limiting factor making the interior and exterior details rival other similarly designed buildings found in Washington, D.C., New York City, and elsewhere. 


Ginter House has many architectural features found in Richardsonian-style buildings. The exterior has been best described by Kerri Culhane in her 1992 master's thesis "The Fifth Avenue of Richmond": The Development of the 800 and 900 Blocks of West Franklin Street, Richmond, Virginia, 1855-1925." 

Culhane wrote:

It would take nearly four years to complete the massive mansion. As completed by 1892, the house alone assessed at $60,000.00, nearly eight times the value of the average townhouse on the street, and three times as much as the largest houses to date. The main block of Ginter House is three-and-one-half stories in height, and was built on a center-hall plan. The wide living hall is flanked by parlors. The east parlor is articulated on the exterior as a square projecting bay. The west parlor is partially comprised in the polygonal three-story tower. The stone and brick work is executed in a hierarchy of materials. The basement is clad in rock-faced brownstone. The first floor is finished in pecked brownstone. Upper floors are pressed brick executed in both stretcher courses and basket weave patterns. Molded brick and drilled stone panels are inset into the exterior. The east elevation contains a Syrian arch over a recessed entrance and a two-story bowed bay. The roof is clad in Spanish tiles.

 

 Parlor of Ginter House, May 1902 edition of Architects' and Builders' Magazine.

The lavish interior of the house is described here by Dale Wheary in her 1993 graduate seminar paper, "The Sense of Truth and Beauty: Harvey L. Page Builds a House for Ginter." Wheary writes that the interior of Ginter House:
... projects a wonderfully integrated character which seems quite in harmony with the styling of the exterior.

The comfortably sized principal rooms are arranged around two spacious halls intersecting to form a T. From the Franklin Street side: the front door opens into the entrance hall paneled in quarter-sawn oak with a richly stenciled frieze, presently in colors said to be based on the original wall cover still intact in the foyer. The fireplace surround in this hall is carved stone in a typical Romanesque foliate design. The parquet border in the all is intact.

 

Hall of Ginter House, May 1902 edition of Architects' and Builders' Magazine.


Ginter House when it served as the Richmond Public Library, ca. 1925.

Wheary goes on to describe the library, the mahogany bookcases and mantel, the original brass lighting fixtures, the bay windows, and the dining room doors. The staircase was designed by R. B. Van Buren, a Richmond woodmaker.



Wrought iron door handles on the front entrance of Ginter House supplied by the G. Krug and Sons ironwork firm of Baltimore. Photo by Clement Britt.

One of the most important features of the house is the ironwork. Records from the Baltimore ironwork firm of G. Krug and Sons collection housed at the Maryland Historical Society document that the ironwork at Ginter House was provided in 1890 by the Krug and Sons firm. The records show drawings for individual iron pieces for Ginter House and mention who in the firm designed them. The ironwork design was probably selected by William Winthrop Kent who would publish his book Architectural Wrought-Iron, Ancient and Modern in 1888, the year work on Ginter House began. Kent's book is illustrated with examples of the Krug firm's work in Richardson buildings in Washington, D.C. 

In a 2008 research paper on the ironwork of West Franklin Street, Gabriel Craig, then a graduate student at VCU, wrote that records at the Maryland Historical Society note that the G. Krug and Sons firm provided Ginter House "24 wrought iron basement window grilles, 3 wrought iron door grilles, 6 wrought iron sidelight grilles, 6 wrought iron window grilles, 6 wrought iron window grilles on the east side of the house, 8 wrought iron door straps and hinges, and wrought iron door handles escutcheons, knobs, and bells throughout the house." Some of this ironwork at Ginter House can still be seen today. Craig also writes that "George W. Parson, the [local Richmond contractor and builder] of Ginter House, ordered 3 ornamental forged bell escutcheons with electric pushes and screws. This is significant because it indicates that Ginter House, rather than the Jefferson Hotel [as some have suggested] was the first building in Richmond to have electricity."




The date of 1888, when work on the house was first begun, can be seen carved into the brick on the chimney façade on the Shafer Street side of the building. 


An article in the Richmond State, dated March 13, 1888, announced that the building's construction had begun. The article noted that Hutcheson and Donald were to be the stone contractors. That firm had a stone quarry three miles outside of Richmond. It is still unknown at this time what firm provided the brownstone used in the building. Bailey T. Davis (1827-1897), a long time brick contractor, provided the bricks. While most work was completed by the end of 1891, an article in the February 10, 1892 issue of the Richmond Dispatch reported "a magnificent entertainment" celebrating the opening of the Ginter's mansion and noted that "fully 500 persons" were present including Gov. Phillip W. McKinney of Virginia and J. Taylor Ellyson, the mayor of Richmond.


Ginter House from the Shafer Street side when the building was known as the Administration Building of Richmond Professional Institute, 1940s.
 
Ginter never married. His grand mansion was home to both him and his niece, Grace Arents (1848-1926). Ginter died on October 2, 1897. Newspaper accounts of the time wrote that he was worth over $10 million. His resting place is in Hollywood Cemetery in a mausoleum with windows designed by Tiffany Studios. Most of his fortune, including Ginter House, was left to Arents who continued his philanthropy work in Richmond. She moved to 
Bloomingdal Farm north of Richmond in the 1910s. That property eventually became the Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden

From Picturesque RichmondRichmondVirginia and Her Suburbs, RichmondVa., J.L. Hill Printing Company, 1891.

Illustrations of Ginter House were widely published in souvenir and booster publications of Richmond. The style of the house influenced many later buildings in the city - though none were as large or grand in their design as Ginter House.

From 1924 through 1930, Ginter House served as home to the City of Richmond's first public library. This library was segregated - Black Richmonders could not use its facilities. In 1925 the city opened the Rosa D. Bowser Library for African Americans. Named for Rosa L. Dixon Bowser (1855-1931), a civic leader who was considered the first African American female school teacher in Richmond, the library was located in the Phyllis Wheatley Branch of the YWCA at 515 N. 5th Street. 

The library in Ginter House also served the students of the Richmond School of Social Work and Public Health which had moved in 1925 to a building across the street from  d Founder's Hall. This same school purchased Ginter House in 1930 and the adjoining property in the back. Ginter House became a multi-function building for the school - it housed a small library, classrooms, and offices. As the school grew, it became exclusively an administrative building for the offices of the provost, vice presidents, and other school officials. An east wing was added as part of a WPA project in 1939 and a west wing was added at the back of the building in 1949.

In 1930 the school became Richmond Professional Institute (RPI), which would in 1968 merge with the Medical College of Virginia to become Virginia Commonwealth University.

Ginter House as seen from W. Franklin St., image from Wikipedia, dated 2019.





View of Ginter House.

As of 2025, Ginter House houses the Office of the Provost and Vice President for Academic Affairs and other administrative departments. But the building is more than an office building. It It is the principal jewel of the many historic houses along the 800 and 900 blocks of W. Franklin St., VCU's "open-air architectural museum."


- Ray Bonis


Bibliography:

Brian Burns, Lewis Ginter: Richmond's Gilded Age Icon, 2011.

Ray Bonis, and Jodi Koste, and Curtis Lyons. Virginia Commonwealth University. Charleston, SC, Arcadia, 2006.

Doug Childers, Ginter House: A mansion that helped shape Richmond’sarchitecture is now part of a university, April 3, 2017, Richmond Times-Dispatch

Kerri Culhane, Master's thesis: "The Fifth Avenue of Richmond": The Development of the 800 and 900 Blocks of West Franklin Street, Richmond, Virginia, 1855-1925." Department of Art History, Virginia Commonwealth University, 1992.

Gabriel Craig "William Winthrop Kent's Architectural Wrought Iron on the 800 and 900 Blocks of West Franklin Street, Richmond, VA: 1885-1895." Seminar paper prepared for Dr. Charles Brownell (VCU Dept. of Art History) -- Spring, 2008. Housed in Special Collections and Archives, James Branch Cabell Library, VCU Libraries
 

Linda George, "Richardsoinan Architecture in Washington D.C. and Richmond, Virginia Seminar paper prepared for Dr. Charles Brownell (VCU Dept. of Art History) -- Fall, 2004. Housed in Special Collections and Archives, James Branch Cabell Library, VCU Libraries. 

Linda George, "Decorative Arts on VCU's West Franklin Street: A tour for the Society of Architectural Historians", April 21, 2002. Richmond, Va. : Dept. Of Art History, School of the Arts, Virginia Commonwealth University, 2002. Available at the Special Collections and Archives dept. of VCU Libraries. 

Lewis Ginter: A Quiet Contribution, produced by Henrico County Public Relations and Media Services, 2008. Internet Access   http://www.co.henrico.va.us/departments/pr/channel-17/online-programs/

Paul. N. Herbert, The Jefferson Hotel: The History of a Richmond Landmark, 2012.

Mary H. Mitchell and Robert S. Hebb. A History of Bloemendaal Richmond, Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden, Inc., 1986.

Samuel J. Moore, The Jefferson Hotel, a Southern Landmark. Richmond, 1940.

Pierce, Don. One Hundred Years at the Jefferson: Richmond's Grand Hotel, a History. Richmond, Page One Inc., 1995.

David D. Ryan and Wayland W. Rennie.  Lewis Ginter's Richmond : [Bellevue, Bloemendaal, Ginter Park, "Laburnum," Laburnum Park, Sherwood Park, the Jefferson Hotel, "Westbrook," post Civil War to present.] Richmond, Va. :Whittet & Shepperson, 1991.

Douglas E. Taylor, Suburban Reflections: A Review of the Attractive Suburban Property Belonging to the Estate of the late Major Lewis Ginter. Presented by Douglas E. Taylor, real estate agent. Richmond, I. N. Jones & Son, ca. 1900.

Dale Wheary, "The Sense of Truth and Beauty: Harvey L. Page Builds a House for Lewis Ginter" from The Architecture of Virginia: Abstracts of the 1994 Architectural History Symposium, Department of Art History, Virginia Commonwealth University, 1994. Available at the Special Collections and Archives dept. of VCU Libraries. 


- Ray Bonis

Tuesday, September 15, 2015

What the?


Could this have been the Jefferson Hotel?

Harvey L. Page and William Winthrop Kent designed Lewis Ginter's mansion at 901 W. Franklin Street - what we call Ginter House at VCU. Page and Kent, then based in Washington, D.C., proposed this Richardsonian design for a proposed hotel in Richmond - one that Lewis Ginter would fund.Their design was not selected.

The Jefferson Hotel was completed in 1895 and designed by a New York architectural firm, Carrere and Hastings. 

The image above is a rare view of Ginter House, ca. 1890s.

Learn more about the architectural history of the Jefferson Hotel HERE.

- Ray

Tuesday, September 8, 2015

The Last Gasp of Blue Shingles



A view of Blue Shingles, circa 1948.  Note the arches of the CSX railroad bridge across the James River, visible on the left through the trees, and the formal “auto court” in the foreground, part of the extensive Charles Gillette-designed gardens around Blue Shingles.
When Lorenzo Sibert Evans and his wife, Alma, built a new home on a dramatic bluff overlooking the James River in the early 1920s, they lavished a lot of money and attention on the project.  It was a beautiful home with a breath-taking view across the James River valley; a jewel whose naturally beautiful setting was further enhanced by the designs of Charles Gillette, the premier Virginia landscape architect of the day.  The Evans could have hardly imagined their lovely home and its surrounding gardens would, within fifty years, be erased from the earth.  They could not have dreamed the last trace of all their expense and aspirations would be eliminated by something as mundane as a change in shipping specifications for American railroads.

The Evans purchased the property that would become known as Blue Shingles (named for the distinctive color of the roof) in 1922, and popular Richmond architect Otis Asbury was commissioned to design a five-bedroom three-story home.  Richmond historian Harry Kollatz has researched Blue Shingles extensively and has written about the house for Richmond Magazine.  He found another Asbury-designed home from 1913 at 2502 Monument and termed it an architectural cousin of Blue Shingles.

Asbury designed a dozen homes along Monument Avenue, but few were in the  Mediterranean style found at Blue Shingles and the house at 2502 Monument.  No matter what the design, Richmond’s grand boulevard must have been the premier venue for a Richmond architect to display his craft. Asbury’s designs were a popular contribution to the Monument Avenue streetscape for more than a decade, beginning around 1910.

No doubt his work for Richmond’s elites on Monument informed the modernity, style, and conveniences of the mansion that Asbury designed for Mr. and Mrs. Evans.  The house charmed one visitor in 1948, even 25 years after the construction of Blue Shingles:
This magnificent completely modern residence has on the first floor, hall, drawing room, dining room and den all with exceptionally handsome walnut paneling.  The tile kitchen and butler’s pantry is complete.  On the second floor there are five bedrooms and four baths; also dressing rooms and large closets.  And the third floor is plastered, with cedar room, storage space, servants’ room and bath.  The full basement contains recreation room, large storage space, laundry room, also a finished room and bath most convenient for yardman and chauffeur.  There is a three-car garage.  All little conveniences have been thought of, such as clothes chutes, incinerator and outside water system.  The copper roof is of the best quality and all gutters and downspouts are first quality.
Asbury’s architectural drawings for Blue Shingles (preserved in Gillette’s papers at the Library of Virginia) are dated March 1922.  Charles Gillette began his portion of the project in October of the same year, starting with a grading plan to shape the Blue Shingles hilltop to accommodate his vision and that of the Evans.  That fall, as the house was being constructed, Gillette’s office produced drawings that included gardens and courts, terrace walls, entrance gates, a teahouse, a formal garden, a vegetable garden, a dovecote, a pergola, and a pool.  Almost exactly a year later, Gillette produced what he titled a “Plan of Final Arrangement of Grounds” for the Evans, completing his role in lavishing many of his signature design elements around their new home.  For passengers on trains crossing the James below the mansion, looking up at Blue Shingles must have been a visual delight as the house and gardens on their dramatic hilltop were silhouetted against the sky.


This arial view of the area around Blue Shingles was made in 1937.
Despite the charming setting and all the money lavished in Blue Shingles by the Evans and their architects, the estate and its manicured setting seemed ill-fated.  The Evans’ son, Lorenzo Jr., shot himself in a car parked in the courtyard of Blue Shingles in 1955.  The senior Evans died three years later.  In 1966 the Evans’ daughter sold the property to C. Merle Luck, owner of the extensive quarry business that still bears his name.  Luck, wrote Harry Kollatz, envisioned the developmental potential of the property and cared little for the house and landscape.


This street sign is now the sole remaining trace of the extensive estate and gardens that once occupied a hilltop site west of the Carillon neighborhood.
Vandals, who partied in the weedy ruins of the once-grand Gillette gardens, literally tore the lavish house to pieces, damaging it extensively, looting the interior and placing Blue Shingles beyond the hope of restoration.  In July 1967, a Richmond newspaper described fifty to seventy-five thousand dollars worth of damage having been done to the house since the previous December:
A breeze now comes through the broken windows of an English style drawing room paneled in black walnut.  In fact, every window in the house is broken.  Words are scrawled on the walls.  The paneling has holes punched in it or is torn from the walls, and hand-carved mantels have been ripped off or chopped up.  The wrought iron bannister on the main staircase is gone, and several sections of the wrought iron balcony railing are missing.  French doors bare of panels stare down a gentle slope to the river, and huge holes have been dug for no apparent reason in the now overgrown formal gardens, where large boxwoods line brick walls.
Like the estate itself, the cast concrete bridge that once led to Blue Shingles has been utterly erased and a new guard rail is the only hint it ever existed.  Note the double CSX tracks below.

The following year the entire site was demolished and the once-grand house, its gardens, and the hilltop it occupied were scraped clean.  Ambitious development plans calling for two apartment towers on the site languished in the face of neighborhood opposition and were mired in red tape.  The years passed and the woods returned and covered the scarred earth on the hilltop.
A view of the Blue Shingles bridge before its demolition by the CSX Railroad.


This now-demolished bridge across the CSX railroad tracks was the last
gasp of the vanished estate, Blue Shingles.
For fifty years, “Blue Shingles Lane” has been no more than an oddly named alley on the western edge of the Carillon neighborhood.  The lane quickly became an overgrown path leading to that aging concrete bridge to nowhere.  For decades, the bridge (which was perhaps the first thing the Evans had to build in order to access the site) was the only surviving structure of the entire Blue Shingles complex of house, gardens, and entry road.  The construction of the Powhite Parkway in the early 1970s further isolated the site, and turned it into a triangular urban mesa between the highway, the river, and the railroad tracks. Unfortunately, the Blue Shingles bridge, designed for the height specifications of  the1920s, could not accommodate today’s taller rail cars and double-stacked shipping containers.  CSX Transportation, the owner of the tracks and the bridge above them, recently demolished the structure to comply with industry standards.
This overgrown lane was once the approach to Blue Shingles.

It is always remarkable and sad when the scene of such style and pride, craftsmanship and design as the Blue Shingles estate is utterly destroyed.  It is just as disquieting to think the extensive gardens, the modern and beautiful house, and all the money and talent that were poured into the home and gardens  have now completely vanished as though they never existed.  Today, only unidentifiable lumps of brick and cement protrude from the scrubby woods that cover the site of the mansion and its once-grand surroundings. 


Today, only scattered lumps of unidentifiable masonry mark the place where Blue Shingles once stood and it is impossible to tell if this was part of the house itself or the extensive formal gardens that surrounded it.

The bridge to the estate, the last gasp of Blue Shingles, has fallen to the wrecking ball and joined the high-style house and gardens, the paneling and the wrought iron, the pergola, the tea house, the clothes chutes and the dove cote in a landfill somewhere.  Only the rock and the river remain.  They wait for lights on the hilltop again, there where the Evans’ guests once wandered the graceful but doomed gardens and swept out through the French doors of Blue Shingles to watch the sun go down.

-- Selden Richardson, September, 2015.