Monday, January 30, 2017

Poe’s Shockoe - The Lovely Ladies

Poe’s Shockoe - The Lovely Ladies 
by Alyson Taylor-White



Every dark and dreary January, hundreds of faithful fans flock to Richmond’s Shockoe Bottom to celebrate the birth of the nation’s most talented, and perhaps quirkiest author. The great news for us is that we claim him even though he was born in Boston. Clustered against the cold, they crowd into the ancient brick Poe Shrine, and after heaving a collective sigh, extinguish the many candles on Edgar Allan Poe’s birthday cake.  This year he would have turned 208.

 
 Eager enthusiasts of Edgar Allan Poe  await the cutting of the
birthday cake by a proxy Poe.  Photo/Kelly Keener.


After a daylong celebration filled with reenactments, readings, and related hubbub, it’s always fun to imagine what Poe himself would think about all this.  In particular, what would Poe think his hometown of Richmond, Virginia today?  


Fortunately for us, even though two centuries have passed since he grew up here, it is easy to see and experience many of the same sights and sounds he did.  Nowhere is this more evident than places with the word “Shockoe” in them.  Poe lived for the most part with his foster parents John and Frances Allan in several places in and around Shockoe Hill’s neighborhoods of Court End and Gamble’s Hill.  Poe played, fished, ran and swam around Shockoe Bottom, Shockoe Creek, and the James River. As a teenager, he set a six-mile record swimming against the current of the rocky James.  And just about everybody he loved, and a few he did not love, are buried at Shockoe Hill Cemetery. 
 Map of Poe’s Richmond. From Edgar Allan Poe: the Man, by Mary Phillips, 1926


Like a lot of other famous Richmond sons and daughters, stories and legends abound about Poe.  “I am a Virginian,” he once wrote a friend.  “Or at least I call myself one.”  Local lore is rich with tales about him that are mostly true, partly true, or almost as good as the truth.

The grave of Jane Stanard, Poe’s inspiration for “To Helen.” Photo/author.


If we could somehow place Poe right in front of Monumental Church on Broad Street, he would be able to figure out his way around Richmond fairly easily.  The church would be very familiar to him.  Inside is the pew where he and his foster mother Frances Keeling Valentine Allan worshipped. As many people know, Monumental stands on the site of the horrific 1811 theater fire that claimed the lives of 72 victims.  Worshipping there as a boy, Poe would have been aware of the grim fact that the theater fire victims are entombed in a crypt beneath the church.  Both of Poe’s birth parents had performed as actors in that theater.  He later fantasized that they were killed in that famous inferno, but it simply was not the case.


Just a short distance away is a place Poe knew well.  Shockoe Hill Cemetery was created in 1822 and is the first city-owned cemetery.  As old St. John’s Churchyard filled, city officials looked around for space for public and private burials.  They found an available parcel to the west of the city, near the Alms House, Hebrew Burial Ground, and the burial ground for free and enslaved persons of color.  It is at today’s 4th and Hospital Streets.


If fate had been kinder to Poe, and to the rest of us, he would have lived a good, long life, written a lot more, and would enjoy eternal rest there as well. If you know anything about his biography, however, you will know that fate was seldom if ever kind to him.  Nonetheless, it is easy to speculate where he would be buried.  He would, and should be right next to his long Lost Lenore, his first and last fiancĂ©e, Sarah Elmira Royster Shelton. Perhaps one day he will be. There are several precedents for this.  Richmonders have never been hesitant to retrieve someone and reassign them where they want them.* 


We are fortunate in that there is an embarrassment of riches in Poe landmarks all over Richmond, but Shockoe Hill Cemetery is a great place to explore in order to really get to know him.  Located in Jackson Ward, the original cemetery entrance is through an old ornamental front gate on Hospital Street.  Originally intended for the city’s elite, the New Burial Ground as it was originally called, was carefully laid out in a grid pattern like Richmond itself.  Careful efforts went into choosing trees and other plants according to the symbolism of floriography, then in full bloom. Neighbors from upscale city sections like Court End, Capitol Square, and Gamble’s Hill reserved park like plots near their friends and family.  It also served as a burial place for less fortunate individuals, as this was the only public cemetery available for years.  Old St. John’s Churchyard had long since filled.  Consequently, there are parts of town in Shockoe Hill, just like the city that surrounded it.  Some sections are obviously more affluent with expensive, elegantly carved tombstones.  Others are barren of any markers whatsoever.  

Edgar Allan Poe knew a lot of folks who ended up in Shockoe Hill Cemetery. They were his neighbors, his playmates growing up, his foster family, and his sweethearts.  The most famous resident, and one who Poe certainly knew personally was Supreme Court Chief Justice John Marshall, the longest serving Chief Justice of the United States.  Poe may have had a passing acquaintance with a woman who would go on to be known as the Yankee Spy, Elizabeth Van Lew.  She lived in a huge mansion in one of Richmond’s oldest and most exclusive enclaves, Church Hill.  His beloved Elmira Shelton lived just east of the Van Lews on Grace Street in a house she rented from them. 


An early 20th century illustration of Poe.

One persistent local legend tied to Poe concerns the grave of an individual who probably inspired his uniquely weird version of a female protagonist. We can take pride in the fact that most likely he cultivated his peculiar perspective right here in Richmond. Even as a teenager, Poe knew he was more than slightly different.  His parents had both been actors, not the most stable of pedigrees. His nouveau riche foster parents John and Frances Allan never formerly adopted him.  From an early age, he had a sense of being on the edge of Richmond’s comfortable middle class, yet never really belonging.  He grew up as the ultimate outsider.

“Alone”
From childhood’s hour I have not been
As others were—I have not seen
As others saw—I could not bring
My passions from a common spring—
From the same source I have not taken
My sorrow—I could not awaken
My heart to joy at the same tone—
And all I lov’d—I lov’d alone—
Then—in my childhood—in the dawn
Of a most stormy life—was drawn
From ev’ry depth of good and ill
The mystery which binds me still—
From the torrent, or the fountain—
From the red cliff of the mountain—
From the sun that ’round me roll’d
In its autumn tint of gold—
From the lightning in the sky
As it pass’d me flying by—
From the thunder, and the storm—
And the cloud that took the form
(When the rest of Heaven was blue)
Of a demon in my view—
When he was in his mid teens, Poe accompanied a friend home one day to Rob Stanard’s house near Capitol Square.  There he was struck by the stunning good looks of Rob’s mother, Jane Stith Craig Stanard.  He later told poet Helen Whitman that Jane Stanard was his first truly ideal love.  It was certainly a platonic bond, since she was twice his age.  He also later revealed that her beauty was such that when he first saw her, he almost lost consciousness.  Stanard married into an affluent family, and came from Richmond nobility herself.  Her father was Adam Craig, the Henrico County Clerk of Court whose house, possibly where Jane was born, still stands in Shockoe Bottom.  Jane Stanard was perfect for Poe.  She was beautiful. She was kind. She offered him the unconditional attention all teenagers crave. And she probably encouraged his writing.  He became intensely smitten with her.  As if on cue, she became mysteriously ill, went insane, and tragically died.  Those who could remember, and some who thought they could, recalled seeing Poe meandering mournfully to Shockoe Hill Cemetery after her death.  There he was seen kneeling or sometimes weeping inconsolably at her grave. Future heroines of his would resemble Jane Stanard.  They were often intellectual, beautiful, and dying or even deceased.  They haunted his narrators (and readers) from the grave. Poe admitted that his passionate poem To Helen was dedicated to her.

Elmira’s house in Church Hill where Poe courted her in 1849. Photo/author.

His foster mother Frances Allan was another significant woman in Poe’s life.  Sadly, she died when he was away from home.  Always a sickly woman, according to the cemetery records, asthma finally caused her death. Poe arrived home too late for her funeral. She’d been the only real mother he’d known when she and John Allan took the baby Poe into their home in 1811.  While she adored and spoiled her foster son, John Allan was said to have been dour and stern with him, perhaps natural to his Scottish roots.  As Poe aged, the relationship with he and his “Pa” deteriorated, perhaps due to Allan’s known dalliances with other women in Richmond.  After Frances died, animosity with John Allan grew over support that Poe felt entitled to as the foster son of a wealthy merchant.  Relations further chilled when, within a brief period, Allan married a much younger woman who produced three legitimate male heirs in quick succession.  The second Mrs. Allan would not allow Poe in the house.  The foster son and father never reconciled, and Poe was not left anything in the estate. It is worth noting that the second Mrs. Allan outlived her husband by quite a few years.  It is worth noting that her tombstone is much larger that her predecessor. There in the family plot John Allan lies between his two wives.  


The gravesite of Poe’s foster parents the Allans. Photo/Jeffry Burden.

Down the hill in an unmarked grave lies a girl who danced divinely with Poe.  When he returned to Richmond for a job as editor of the Southern Literary Messenger, young Poe briefly squired publisher Thomas White’s daughter Eliza around the fashionable social scene. They created quite a complimentary contrast, twirling and swirling around ballrooms in Richmond with her long blond hair, and with his dark, dramatic good looks.  Observers said the only emotion he betrayed on the dance floor was in his large gray eyes. Southern Literary Messenger owner Thomas White gave Poe his first journalism job.  This launched Poe as an acerbic critic on an unsuspecting literary stage. His fierce criticism would earn him the sobriquet of “the Tomahawk Man.”  White often speculated that Poe only read other authors in order to eviscerate them editorially.  It is said that White forbad his editor from pursuing his dear daughter Eliza.  Whether or not this is the case, she remained unmarried to the end of her days. She was one of the few wedding guests present at Poe’s wedding in Richmond to his cousin, Virginia Clemm. Though Eliza White’s grave is unmarked, a memento mori of hers may be seen at the Poe Museum in the form of a large lock of her flaxen hair.  

Poe’s love life begins and ends with Sarah Elmira Royster Shelton.  While it is a fact that from an early age, Poe was in love with the idea of love, he most likely really did have affection for Elmira. They were teenagers when they first became secretly engaged in a garden on the site of what is today’s Linden Row Inn.  Then they became unengaged as soon as her father caught wind of it.  Like a lot of parents, Royster thought his daughter could do better than an alliance with a penniless orphan.  Even though the Allans spared no expense in raising Poe, it was common knowledge around town that there was no love lost between the boy and his foster father.  That might have been because of the fact that Allan had well-known dalliances with women other than his wife that resulted in illegitimate offspring.  While Poe was at Mr. Jefferson’s new university at Charlottesville, Elmira’s father intercepted their love letters.  She said later it was because her father thought them too young for such a serious commitment. She eventually married a prosperous man her family chose as a more suitable match.  However happy she might have been, it did not prevent her from wistfully wondering what might have been when she saw Poe squiring his young bride Virginia around town. Elmira said she had to remind herself that she herself was a married woman.  Suppressed desires can sometimes be the most irresistible.  It is likely had things gone her way in 1849, Elmira and Poe would have married when he returned to his hometown and settled down as a successful author. By that time, she was a wealthy widow, and he’d been a widower since 1847. Unfortunately for her and for us, Poe left his fiancĂ©e in Richmond allegedly on a business trip, promising to return, never to do so.  To add insult to injury, Elmira learned of his sudden mysterious death in Baltimore by reading about it in the paper. Of all of Poe’s lovely ladies in Shockoe Hill Cemetery, Elmira’s tabletop marker gets the most attention.  It is often covered with stones and other mementoes for remembrance from Poe fans visiting from all over the world.      

There are many more stories about both Poe and others to explore in a historic landmark like Shockoe Hill Cemetery. These tombstone tales also reveal a lot about early Richmond, Virginia that are seldom found elsewhere.

*Ask James Monroe, who was happily dead and buried in New York when the developers of Hollywood Cemetery repatriated his remains when they needed a celebrity to promote burials to their new, private necropolis on the James.

- Alyson Taylor-White
Allyson is a historian and instructor of Richmond and Petersburg history at the University of Richmond.  History Press will publish her book on Richmond’s Shockoe Hill Cemetery this year.

Sunday, January 29, 2017

Sierra Club Falls of the James letter to Richmond Mayor and City Council about Monroe Park, Jan. 27, 2017

Have you seen Monroe Park lately? I belong to a Facebook group called "Fans of Monroe Park" and have been following the"renovations" being made to Monroe Park. Among the many changes taken place as part of a $6 million renovation is the removal of many of the trees. Below is a recent letter sent to city officials by the Sierra Club of the Falls of the James. Please read it. Please let your local city council member and the new mayor about your concerns about Monroe Park. And please subscribe to the Fans of Monroe Park on Facebook. 

- Ray.

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January 27, 2017

Dear Mayor Stoney, members of City Council,

I am writing to you today representing the Sierra Club Falls of the James, one of the largest and
oldest environmental organizations in the area. We are a local grassroots group that is part of the
national Sierra Club. We are writing because we are very concerned about the removal of trees
and the state of historic Monroe Park. We note that we previously produced a statement on this
topic in May of 2014 (ITEM 1), and we are profoundly disappointed that our concerns have been
ignored. We also note previous public outcry about trees removed at the Redskins Camp,
Tredegar Green, and the Maggie Walker statue site. In regard to Monroe Park, we would like to
present you with the following statement of facts and remedial suggestions. Ideally, we would like
to meet with you in person at a future date to discuss further.

STATEMENT OF FACTS

From 2004 until 2012, the Monroe Park Advisory Council (MPAC) was created by Richmond
City Council to craft a master plan for the renovation of Monroe Park, a designated urban green
space purchased by the city in 1851 and historically known for its comprehensive tree canopy
consisting of many mature, healthy and diverse tree specimens. This urban tree canopy provided
great benefit to the urban Richmond community through scenic vistas, cooling shade, storm water
displacement and the filtering of pollutants caused by the dense downtown street grid. In 2008, a
publicly vetted master plan was created and approved by the Richmond Urban Design Committee
(UDC) without comment. This plan emphasized restoration and conservation of the majority of the
existing tree canopy with emphasis placed on species planted during the parks major period of
significance, circa 1900-1910. The original 2008 master plan is available for download on the
Richmond city government website with a graphic depiction of a comprehensive and fully restored
tree canopy (ITEM 1).

2009 WORK DOCUMENTS APPROVAL

In order to implement the approved master plan, work documents had to be crafted. In a
move that was never presented to neighborhood associations or the public at large, the work
documents contained a modification to the tree plan that reduced the number of trees in the park
by +/- 26 trees. Members of the Monroe Park Advisory Council were not advised of the significant
tree canopy reduction as designed by 3 North and supervised by MPAC president Alice Massie.
In 2009, the UDC and the Richmond Planning Commission approved work documents.

VCU ADVOCACY OF TREE REMOVAL IN THE PARK

In 1991, VCU brought before city council a request to remove 37 trees from Monroe Park
(ITEM 2). Due to public outcry and opposition, city council voted down the measure. Again, in
2006 during master plan deliberations, VCU again made the suggestion that a substantial portion
of the tree canopy be removed. Ms. Massie was in agreement. City planning director Rachel
Flynn in response assisted by hiring consultants and the plan (ITEM 1) was chosen due to public
consensus over the copious removal of healthy mature trees.

MONROE PARK CONSERVANCY AND LEASE

In 2011, the Monroe Park Conservancy (MPC), established by Alice Massie and others as a
501c3 corporation, sought to lease Monroe Park to solicit a 3 million dollar amount toward the 6
million dollar park renovation and to exert management preferences on the park thereafter. On
April 14, 2014, city council approved Ord. 2014-010-50, a 30-year lease with the MPC with said
lease commencing after completion of the renovation. On the same day, city council approved
Res. 2014-R064-64 which sought to diversify board membership of the MPC to include
neighboring community stakeholders to be achieved within a 6-month period. Ms. Massie signed
the resolution in agreement on behalf of the MPC. Now, as of 2 1/2 years after the lease
approval, Ms. Massie has refused to diversify the MPC Board as per signed resolution. A month
and a half after lease approval, on May 27, 2014, city council abolished the MPAC through Ord.
2014-111-84. This further excluded any participation by the public on important matters pertaining
to the park.

FURTHER CONTROVERSIAL PROPOSED PARK PLAN MODIFICATIONS

In December of 2016, during the holiday season and during a time when Richmond City
government was in transition due to election of a new Mayor and a new 2nd District
Councilperson (Monroe Park lies in the 2nd District), a controversial proposal was submitted to
the UDC for an expedited hearing on January 5, 2017 (ITEMS 3 and 4). Both newly elected
Mayor Levar Stoney and 2nd District Councilperson Kim Gray would be eligible to sit on the MPC
Board of Directors as of January 1, 2017 but presumably would not have time to completely vet
the proposal before the hearing on the 5th. The sponsors of this questionable proposal were city
Capital Projects Manager Donald Summers and 3 North Project Manager Andrea Almond, also a
sitting member of the UDC. It is troubling that UDC policy dictates that proposals that have
significant impact such as this one be presented to both affected city council members and
neighborhood associations. No presentations were planned to either city councilors or
neighborhood associations. After complaints on this were made to UDC secretary Ms. Onufer,
Mr. Summers temporarily withdrew the hearing proposal for January 5, 2017.

DECEMBER 12, 2016 MEETING AND TREE REMOVAL

On December 12,2016, around the time of the UDC proposal application, a meeting was held
in Monroe Park which included Ms. Massie, 3 North Design Team, City Capital Projects Manager
Mr. Donald Summers, city arborist Alexander Elton and people from the city annual tree
contractor service. At this meeting, an additional 14 trees were specified for removal. 7 were
declared dead by the city arborist Alexander Elton and 7 were declared in conflict with a proposed
city bio-retention feature in the park, with statements being made that the bio-retention feature
would destroy the trees. None of the 14 trees were identified in any previous documents for
removal so the 7 cited for conflict should have been approved in advance by departmental
variance but in the rush to remove the trees, no variance was applied for by Mr. Donald
Summers. The trees were gone in a matter of days. It is troubling that the location of these trees,
being adjacent in proximity to the controversial UDC pavilion proposal, could have caused a
negative impact on the approval of the proposal by the UDC. The UDC pavilion proposal would
adversely affect at least 2 other trees scheduled for planting in the park. Healthy mature trees are
a much more efficient means of storm water displacement than mechanical bio-retention means
and the city undertook no study to verify that the trees would be destroyed by the bio-retention
feature. The seven dead trees were removed in days as well. Former 3 term member of MPAC
and recipient of the 2005 Jesse Reynolds Award for his conservation work on this park and
others, Charles Woodson disputes the dead tree declaration. Unfortunately, city arborist
Alexander Elton could provide no records of his decision on the health of these trees under the
Virginia Freedom of Information Act and contrary to city policy of marking and allowing an
extended time period for community comment on trees before removal, the trees were gone in
just days. Mr. Chupek, who is in charge of the Urban Forestry Division, confirmed that there were
no plans to replace either the removed trees nor the the ones questionably declared dead and
removed expeditiously by city arborist Alexander Elton. (ITEM 6)

APPEARANCE OF IMPROPRIETY

After consideration of the facts that trees were removed without variance to possibly afford
a successful approval of an expedited and very controversial UDC pavilion proposal in conflict
with the Monroe Park master plan and due to the appearance that the new councilperson Kim
Gray, who espouses government transparency as a keystone of her governing philosophy as well
as the new Mayor Levar Stoney would have possibly been excluded in the expedited UDC review
gives the unmistakable appearance of impropriety in this matter. When factored in that 3 North
Project Manager Andrea Almond was an applicant on this expedited UDC pavilion proposal which
denied the affected public and city councilpersons of open presentation, violating the policy of the
UDC and that Ms. Almond is also a sitting member of the existing UDC, this appearance of
impropriety is compounded. It is also unmistakable that contrary to the spirit of Res. 2014-R064-
64 which would diversify the MPC Board of Directors, the community has been deprived of any
voice pertaining to the city's oldest and most historic Monroe Park, and that the opposite of
governmental transparency has been promulgated, the Falls of the James Chapter of the Sierra
Club makes the following remedial suggestions:

1.) The Monroe Park Advisory Council be permanently reestablished by act of Richmond City
Council and that members of the stake holding neighborhoods surrounding this park be appointed
by Council as well as representatives of the VCU student government and VCU Administration to
advise Richmond city government on matters concerning Monroe Park.
2.) That due to the lack of transparency and due to questionable decisions made by the MPC in
representing corporate and institutional interests to the exclusion of the legitimate interests of the
tax payers and other community members, that the lease on Monroe Park with the MPC be
terminated immediately by ordinance of city council and that former MPC board members be
rendered ineligible for appointment to the new Monroe Park Advisory Council.
3.) That the Monroe Park tree canopy, which has been tragically decimated by the removal of
healthy mature trees, be reforested to the standards established in the original Monroe Park
master plan, as approved by the UDC in 2008 and is listed on the city website under planning
documents.
4.) That a policy and funding be established by act of city council for the replacement of trees that
die or are removed due to disease or acts of God in Richmond City Parks be replaced in a timely
and appropriate manner.

Thank You,
Scott Burger,
Advocacy Committee of Sierra Club Falls of the James
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